Inspirations: The House of Vionnet

Divine fashion designed by the legendary Madeleine Vionnet.  Born in 1876 in Paris, she began working at the age of twelve, founded her label in 1912 and presented her last collection in 1939.  Her gowns were worn by actresses such as Marlene Dietrich and Katherine Hepburn, princesses and society women of the day.  The gowns speak for themselves; what could be more elegant—

Romantic —

Ethereal —

Sexy —

Chic —

Timeless —

The House of Vionnet was relaunched in 2007.  

 

Edited: July 24th, 2009

Belle Epoque to Deco!

Saw 2 movies this past week: Cheri with Michelle Pfieffer and Rupert Friend —

—and Public Enemies with Johnny Depp and Marion Cotillard —

While I wouldn’t add either of them to my favorite films list, both were period pieces with marvelous sets and fabulous costume design!  And that got me to thinking . . .    

The era of Cheri — the Belle Époque (late 1880’s up to about 1914) was a precursor to the Deco Era (1920’s to late 1930’s) in which Public Enemies took place.  As both eras were extremely rich artistically (in my humble opinion nothing since then has rivaled them), I thought it would be fascinating to nose about a bit as to the stylistic differences in interiors, art, fashion and jewelry between the two eras.  I didn’t set out to make this posting so long, but as I got into it, found so many cool images and ideas—well, one thing just led to another . . . so here it is!

To me the Belle Époque was characterized by sumptuous interiors—

With lots of gorgeous accessories —

As to art: the images of nature that the Impressionists are so known for — 

Contrasted with a sophisticated and active urban social scene— 

Clothing was elegant, with beautiful lines and workmanship, although women were still constrained by corsets— 

Jewelry—lots of glitter (not to be confused with bling)—

—and enamel, echoing the shapes of nature with the same sophistication of the times —

One era spilled into the other — the Deco era defined by the stirrings of modernism (but not yet blighted by it—again my humble opinion) —  

Interiors where line and form were as important as the individual elements—

The poster became a handy venue for artists—

Clothes for women?  The dress changed shape as corsets went the way of Strauss Waltzes and women began to dance to Jazz . . . “Do you hear the beat, of dancing feet . . . on the avenue I’m takin’ you to . . . 42^nd street! . . .”

 

But jewelry didn’t seem to change that much.  Tiffany Studios were still in full swing,

The Sautoir was even more popular, although looking a little like the Chrysler Building — this one of lapis, diamonds and white gold from the Tadema Collection—

 

And shorter necklaces were still delightfully inventive, like this beautiful antique glass, diamond and enamel floral necklace —

I think of the Belle Epoque and the Art Deco era as two of the greatest times for design in recent history, where great art met innovative architecture, met fashion, met interiors, met theater and dance (didn’t even go there yet)!

From inspirations of the art of those times, we can fly!!

Edited: July 14th, 2009

Summer Collection ‘09!

Have finished at last a new group of necklaces and earrings!  This season I’ve been sooo lucky to find wonderful elements to work with: antique and vintage brooches, some lovely old medals, powerful stones from the earth, dreamy charms and bijoux from all over the world.   As always my desire is to create adornments that are truly timeless—not tied to one season.

What will you find?

Hidden meanings and mysteries, stardust memories, mythic symbols, iconic expressions, dancing shapes, the exuberance of flowers.  Jewels that reflect dreams and inspirations—and playful flights of fancy!  

Among the collection is Goddess 2, an exquisite polished amethyst rock crystal stone on double textured copper chains.  I loved adding the antiqued bronze flower-wings connector—it gave the necklace an other-worldly look, evocative perhaps of the goddess Aphrodite wandering along the edge of the sea  . . . 

And . . . A Garden in the Tuileries, a little precocious (like us ladies) with its antique silvered flowers sprinkled with spring-green and apple green Swarovsky crystals. 

Also Metropolis, a spectacular very long, twenties style Sautoir.   40” long (with a 6” drop), textured copper chain with vintage beads and vintage golden bronze crown bead caps, culminating in a hand made 4” tassel.  Depending on your height, it falls somewhere below the waist.  Slinky and sexy with jeans or an evening gown!

And Moroccan Dreams made with vintage silver North African coins, silver filigree flowers and a hand assembled drop of vintage findings.  Very mysterious . . . the lure of the Casbah, the white sands of the Sahara, the mysterious men of the Tuareg tribes veiled in deep indigo robes (yes—the men are veiled, see the fabulous Bertolucci film The Sheltering Sky) . . . . . .

My Fair Lady, a stunning vintage filigree and coral glass stone brooch made into a focal pendant.  It’s signed ‘West Germany’, which means it was made before the wall came down in 1989.  I think it probably dates to the mid-sixties.   I sprinkled it with a few Swarovsky “diamonds” to vary the intensity of the bright coral color.   Vintage gold and glass spacers are set on the bronze chain.  The drop is a fabulous Egyptianate bronze tassel.  The clasp is an Edwardian style toggle and of course there are some lovely little charms that will grace the back of your neck.  The whole thing is very Belle Epoque.  If you were going to a candle light ball you’d be wearing it with a beautiful floor length silk gown.  As it is, today, it will look fabulous with jeans and a crisp white shirt!

  

I had only one of these very magical “Faery of the Woods” filigree pendants left.  This one I combined with a deep blue star shaped antique glass and 14k gold window bead, and an antique Czech glass drop in grassy green.  The chain is copper, the whole effect is so light and ethereal you can almost see the faeries dancing.

In keeping with a forest and wild creatures theme is Soaring and Courage Dwells in Gentleness, The Golden Bee, and Starlit Butterfly.  Soaring was hand assembled from various antique and vintage findings.  A vintage bronze bird is mounted on vintage filigree, the pearls are very high level vintage glass (they may possibly be real).  The chain is wonderful old textured copper.

Starlit Butterfly was made with the last of my wonderful carved jade butterflies.  All the others, (Dawn Butterflies) have sold, so I thought for the last of them, I would do stars!  It has been assembled with an old filigree finding and copper star wires.  The beads are those wonderful 14k gold and glass window beads.  The drop is lapis, and the chain is beautiful textured copper.

And earrings, there are new pairs including La Chanson des Fleur—very wonderful vintage silvered bronze findings with 3 fresh water pearl drops on each earring.  I can’t begin to tell you how gorgeous these are on!

 

The Calla Lilies are in Bloom Again —antique French hand made glass Calla Lilies (gorgeous, no 2 identical) with vintage Russian vermeil and glass beads on vintage enamel posts.   Although I was lucky enough to find a number of the glass Calla Lilies, there will be only one pair exactly like this.

So sit back, have a cup of tea, or a glass of wine and enjoy browsing—there are many other marvelous pieces in the Summer Collection ’09.   And if you’d like more info on anything . . . just get in touch! 

 

 

Edited: July 4th, 2009